Smith, Julia Elizabeth
1987,
The evaluation and optimization of sensorial comfort
, PhD thesis, University of Salford.
Abstract
The factors which are commonly considered to be of prime importance in
determining the comfort of garments are thermo-physiological comfort, garment fit and sensorial comfort. The last of these factors is the topic of this
thesis. Although these three factors are separated into distinct groups, they
are also dependant on one another. Therefore a knowledge of all of them is
necessary for an assessment of overall clothing comfort.
Sensorial comfort has. been a neglected area of clothing comfort in comparison
to the other comfort factors. Vhen research has been carried out it has been on
specific sensations or fibres and no over-view of the range of sensations and
their relative severity has been established. This means that different research
studies in this area cannot be compared because they are so specific. This
research programme has established the foundations for future sensorial comfort
studies by providing this information.
This was done by an extensive wearer trial when a large selection of
commercially available fibres and fabrics were worn next to the skin for a
range of activities. Nine major discomfort sensations were identified. These
were: tight fitting bands, tickle, prickle, scratchiness, local irriation due to
labels, seams and trimmings, fibre shedding, initial cold feel, wet cling and
tacky cling. Four of these sensations: tickle, local irritation, fibre shedding,
and tacky cling had not been investigated before. A glossary of terms was
compiled to describe these sensations and this is proposed as a standard
terminology. This wearer trial also enabled a hierarchy of potential discomfort
to be identified for these nine major discomfort sensations.
These sensations were further investigated by specific wearer trials to
determine the main physical, physiological and psychological factors influencing
their presence and severity. New test procedures were designed and developed to
assess a fabric or garment for the presence of discomfort sensations. When.test
procedures were inappropriate, recommendations were made.
The attitude of the general public to the factors producing discomfort from
their clothing was also determined. A range of 1004 people in the north of
England were asked for their views on all aspects of clothing comfort. Some of
the .major findings were that people associate discomfort with the fibre type,
and not the fabric or garment. Fibre absorbency is thought to be very important
for clothing comfort, but wet cling is not thought to be an annoying sensation
in comparison to other skin sensations, and the appearance of the fabric has an
over-riding influence on the acceptance of a garment.
This research has provided the information necessary to describe and, in many
cases predict the presence of sensorial discomfort sensations.
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